An afternoon in Telluride
A walk around the historic centre and a ride on the free gondola to Mountain Village and back.
Three former mining towns tucked between the peaks of the San Juan Mountains, linked by one of the most beautiful roads in the USA: the Million Dollar Highway. Wooden facades, streets straight out of the silver rush, and views that make it hard not to think of Switzerland.
Ouray
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Weather model data for Ouray. On Red Mountain Pass, more than 900 m higher, it is noticeably colder and the weather changes faster.
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These three towns are best seen together. Telluride sits in a box canyon to the west, the Million Dollar Highway links Ouray and Silverton, and the whole area forms the San Juan Skyway scenic loop.
A former mining town in a box canyon closed off by high mountain walls. Its whole historic centre is protected as a landmark, and above the valley Bridal Veil Falls, Colorado's tallest free-falling waterfall, drops from the cliffs.
The biggest attraction is free: the gondola to Mountain Village takes about 12 minutes and runs daily from 6:30 to midnight, with maintenance breaks in spring and autumn (the 2026 summer season runs from 21 May to around 25 October). Telluride is expensive, and over Labor Day weekend, during the film festival, hotels are hard to find.
Telluride.com — gondola ↗Ouray sits in a natural rock amphitheatre at 2,375 m, surrounded by steep peaks, hence the nickname "Switzerland of America". Main Street is lined with buildings from the mining era, and the town is a good base before and after the Million Dollar Highway.
For the evening there are the town's hot springs pools (Ouray Hot Springs Pool), and just outside town Box Canyon Falls Park, where a walkway leads to a waterfall in a narrow rock slot. Both charge admission; check current prices locally.
Visit Ouray ↗The stretch of US 550 between Ouray and Silverton, about 40 km. The most spectacular part is the Uncompahgre Gorge south of Ouray and the climb to Red Mountain Pass (3,358 m). The road is narrow, with tight hairpins taken at 15 mph in places, steep drop-offs and, on many stretches, no guardrails.
Drive slowly, in daylight and well rested. Stop for photos only in marked pull-outs. Heading north from Silverton you are on the inside, by the rock; heading south from Ouray you are on the outside, by the drop. Check conditions on COtrip before you set off.
COtrip — road conditions ↗The highest of the three towns, at about 2,840 m, in a mountain basin. Its historic centre is a protected landmark, and on Blair Street, once a street of saloons and brothels, 19th-century buildings still stand.
Silverton is the end of the line for the historic narrow-gauge train from Durango, the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. Passengers step off right by Blair Street, and the train heads back a few hours later. On my trip we do not ride the train, but its arrival is worth seeing.
Durango & Silverton Railroad ↗All three towns lie higher than the highest peaks in many European ranges you might have hiked. On the first day you may notice shortness of breath, a headache or poor sleep: drink plenty of water, do not overdo it and go easy on alcohol.
In September the days are usually pleasant, but the nights are cold, and the first snow may already fall on the passes. In mid-to-late September the aspens turn gold: one of the most beautiful moments of the year.
When to go →Ouray is the most convenient base: it sits in the middle, close to both Telluride and Silverton. Telluride has the most expensive hotels, Silverton the smallest choice. Book ahead, especially for weekends.
The towns lie on the San Juan Skyway scenic loop. From Moab you reach Telluride in about 3 hours, and from Silverton you can continue south to Durango and Mesa Verde National Park.
My Colorado trip →A walk around the historic centre and a ride on the free gondola to Mountain Village and back.
An early start, about 80 km through the mountains. A short walk along Main Street in Ouray.
The Uncompahgre Gorge and Red Mountain Pass, with stops in marked pull-outs.
A walk along Blair Street and Greene Street, lunch and, if your timing is right, the arrival of the train from Durango.
The same road in the other direction, with different views, and the hot springs to finish.
A short overview. Check hours, prices and availability on the websites listed with each town.
The only free public gondola transit system of its kind in the USA. Views over the valley and peaks, and restaurants and viewpoints in Mountain Village.
Telluride.com ↗A tall waterfall at the end of the valley, with a historic power plant on its rim. You can see it well from the end of the road beyond town.
A waterfall roaring in a narrow rock slot, reached by a walkway fixed to the canyon wall.
Town pools fed by hot springs, with mountain views. Perfect after a day on the Million Dollar Highway.
The red slopes of Red Mountain and remains of old mines are visible straight from the road. Stop only in marked places.
A walk through a former mining town. The train from Durango arrives in the middle of the day and stays for a few hours; check the timetable on the railroad's website.
Durango & Silverton Railroad ↗Telluride, Ouray, Silverton and the Million Dollar Highway are part of my Colorado trip: days 10–11 in the 13-day version and days 15–16 in the 18-day version.